Step 1 : Pick and Prepare Your Hankie

For this pattern, look for a hanky that has a nicely finished edge of some kind, with lace, trim, or an attractive print. Please read our 'Basic Hankie Sewing Guide' before you get started for more information about picking a good hanky and for sewing tips specific to these fabrics and patterns. It is a good idea to gently hand-wash your hanky before cutting. Many vintage hankies will have stains or discoloration, but they can be nicely freshened up with a gentle wash, and I usually hang them over a towel rack to dry. Low-heat pressing will smooth your hankie out for good cutting, but please remember NOT to use starch! (Read our tips to find out why.)

Step 2 : Planning your Layout

When your Hankie is ready for sewing, you will want to plan out how to lay out your pattern pieces. Here is a diagram to help you. You may want to lay your pieces out differently to take advantage of particularly nice sections of your hanky's floral pattern, or to avoid stains, holes or damage. Most Hankies will make 1-2 dresses. You can use both skirt sections to make two 'tiers' in a single dress skirt, or to make two different dresses. Making a two-tiered skirt can take advantage of a hankie that would otherwise be too thin or transparent. In Henrietta's dress, her 'tiers' are different lengths, and are both gathered together and sewn directly to the bodice.

Step 3 : Transferring Pattern

The skirt doesn't have its own pattern piece as you will be deciding your skirt size based on your own Hitty and on the hankie you're using. Decide the length you want your Hitty's skirt, (usually 3 to 4 inches), and add about 3/8 inch for seam allowance. You can create the skirt piece with just the bottom edge finished, or cut along an entire side of the hankie including a finished edge on either end, if you prefer to leave your dress open on the back. Use your ruler and pencil to measure and trace the skirt piece. (measure and trace two pieces for a layered skirt.) Next, trace the sleeve pattern piece onto the hankie with the bottom edge flush with a finished edge. Before cutting, double check that there is enough fabric in the center to create two of your bodice piece plus 1/4-inch clearance on all sides. If there is enough fabric for only one bodice piece, you can substitute another neutral fabric for one of them, and it will be the bodice lining.

Step 4 : Cutting and Machine Sewing

Cut along your traced lines to cut out both the skirt piece and the sleeve pieces, and set them aside. Begin the bodice by tracing the bodice pattern on the WRONG side of some of our remaining fabric, with at least 1/4-inch clearance on all sides. Do NOT cut out the bodice piece. Use very light pencil for tracing, or water/air soluble fabric pen. As before, you may want to lay out the bodice piece to take advantage of a print or to avoid stains. With a second piece of fabric for the liner, (hankie scrap or other fabric), place right sides together and machine or hand-stitch along the line that is marked in pink on the pattern piece. If you're using a sewing machine, (recommended), shorten your stitch length. This seam must be VERY strong and the stitches tiny, because of the delicacy of the fabric. When finished, cut out the bodice along the pencil lines and leave a 3/16-inch seam allowance outside the seam edge. Turn, and press flat with low heat. The remaining work should be done by hand.

Step 5 : Handsewing

The remaining sewing on this dress should be done by hand using an extremely tiny back-stitch. Gather the curved edge of the sleeves, fit them into the bodice sleeve openings, pin, and hand-stitch. Bring sleeve and bodice edges together, pin, and stitch sides. Turn bodice. Gather skirt, pin to bodice, and stitch. By using your needle to help distribute the gathers as you attach the skirt and sleeves, and using the tiniest backstitches you can make, you can stitch many of the gathers individually creating a very delicate, fine appearance.

Step 5 : Finishing

Your dress is nearly complete! All that remains is to gather the sleeve edges with doubled thread, if desired, stich up the back of the skirt, if desired, and to fasten the back with buttons, snaps, hooks, or a tiny safety pin. Your dress may be just right already, but you can make it fancier with leftover scraps from your hankie, buttons, beads, ribbons, lace, trims, etc. Have Fun!