The Practical Hitty Newsletter
Basic Hitty Face Carving Tutorial
from Sara Cole Studios

You should be familiar with carving safety before attempting any carving. This tutorial doesn't teach basic carving or safety.

Click on thumbnail for detailed view

To start, on the head, I carve out neck and hair, leaving facial details for last. When I start the face, I carve in the forhead curve along the profile of the bridge of the nose. this curve is already partially indicated in my blank, but always has to be refined.
Then I carve in the eye sockets, on either side, creating the bridge. I mark out where the nose, lipline, and under-lip curve are, and around this area I make a nose/lips/chin mound by carving the cheeks back. With Hitty's child-like profile, I noticed that her nose, lips, and chin all thrust out to basically the same extent, as opposed to a more adult profile where the nose would be more prominent.
I carve out a nose/lip/chin mound, as I shape and carve back the cheeks on either side.
Then I score and carve in a very deep, detailed lipline, complete with somewhat 'triangular,' wider corners of the mouth.The reason I do this before carving many nose, chin, or lip details is that I noticed when I carved things down to a lip-mound, with separate nose and chin, and then tried to carve in the lip-line, the lips were way too susceptible to verticle chipping and shattering. So I have always found it easiest to think of the nose/lips/chin mound as one unit, and to take the deepest and most dangerous cut, (for me), when it is still most solid. Also, by carving the lipline at this stage, I have a good idea of the expression the lipline will have, and can use it as a guide in the rest of the carving.

After the lipline, I carve the lips around it by first carving the undernose/upperlip curve, then the smaller underlips/overchin curve. Finally, I then shape out the sides of the lips, chin, and nose,(nostrils mainly), on either side, and do any final adjustments on cheek shape, etc.

A final guide on cheeks is to study the profile of the doll's face. For most doll styles I carve, I am aiming for a clearly defined nose, lip, and chin profile, unobscured by a cheek-line, which should be carved well back on either side. If the cheeks obscure any of the features in profile, the doll is probably too apple-cheeked, and I carve them back farther. This guideline doesn't always apply-- for some doll styles, such as babies or toddlers, old women, or just to make those sweet, gorgeously apple-cheeked dolls!

Our Model is SH2, Hitty Melissa. She is a White Ash Shoulderhead and has also been cast in resin.

(c)2006 Sara DeGroat Cole, SCH